Travel

In praise of rule benders, and Giotto

March 14, 2011

The Italian attitude to rules and regulations — that they exist only for other people — is one of the most maddening things about living here; except, of course, when it works for you. We had used the fearsome online system to book a visit to the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua. What with one thing [...]

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Safe

October 2, 2009

It is always such a relief when the hotel room safe not only opens on the dimly remembered code but also still contains everything you put in it on arrival. I do sometimes wonder, though, what the point is. I suppose to make it more difficult to steal things. Doh! But every place I’ve ever [...]

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Just trying to be helpful

August 28, 2008

On the road, and discovering the joys of connectivity in various places, one thing puzzles me. How come Google can remember what language I want my searches in, but not the language in which I want Reader to deal with me? In Italy, Reader’s gone all Italian on me, while in Belgium it veered randomly [...]

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China 6 DE2XING4

October 1, 2007

It was pure good fortune that I read Victor Mair’s guest post over at Language Log a couple of days ago. In it Mair treats with loving respect the details of a sign seen at Silk Street Market in Beijing. The sign lists the Recommended Words and Forbidden Words for the benefit of the salesgirls [...]

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China 5

September 29, 2007

Yesterday was full-on tourist travel day. Summer Palace first thing in the morning. Then the Great Wall. Then lunch in an authentically exotic restaurant hard by the Chinese Ethnic Culture Park. Then the Forbidden City and finally Tiananmen Square. Nothing I could say about any of those places would be both good and original, so [...]

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China 4

September 26, 2007

At last night’s banquet I sat next to an old China hand; he’s been coming here since 1985. He really appreciates the changes that have taken place. For me, the China of memory is a childhood picture. Huge squadrons of identically clothed androgynous workers bicycling through the smog. Drabness and greyness. Well, it certainly is [...]

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China 3

September 24, 2007

This always happens. One busy day and all thoughts of keeping on top of the blogging vanish. So yesterday was the first full day of exposure to Chinese food (in between work). And I have not yet processed or uploaded the photographs. Nor, actually, do I have anything like a full list of everything we [...]

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Still rhymes with God

September 24, 2007

Relaxing in my headphones with the iPod on shuffle and my mind at 11,000 metres, I was jarred rudely awake. Ella and Louis had just finished singing A Foggy Day when what should Frank Sinatra choose to sing but the exact same song. This is the first time this has ever happened to me in [...]

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Market diversity

September 23, 2007

Markets are fascinating. Wherever I go in the world, I consider it a real treat to be able to wander very slowly through the markets, seeing what there is, seeing whether I can identify things I’ve only read about, just soaking it up. Kunming is no exception and I spent a very happy hour this [...]

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China 2

September 22, 2007

Snatched a couple of hours today after meeting some last minute work needs, so took myself off to explore the immediate environs. First off, it is really clean and neat. The streets are crowded, but they are not dirty and they seem a lot more “developed” than, say, Hanoi. Time came to eat. There were [...]

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Marketing triumph

September 22, 2007

Golly it is hard to blog when you can’t connect to some of your favourite sites. First, the NYT. Now Wikipedia. I promise to add the links when I get back to the land of unfettered access. When I was young, we didn’t have English gooseberries (Ribes uva-crispa). We had Cape Gooseberries (Physalis peruviana) although [...]

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China 1

September 22, 2007

I’m in Kunming, Yunnan province, in the southwest of China just above Viet Nam. And the place is chock full of surprises. I fired up the GPS, just for fun, and got a reading. As it happened, Luigi had just texted me. so I texted back the coordinates. Less than 30 seconds later he texted [...]

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Down memory lane

July 12, 2007

Of course you can’t go back; but — oh great: I start writing in one spare minute and my mother interrupts. so here I am more than a day later trying to remember how I had planned to proceed and lamenting a lost mobile phone and a broken back tooth. The phone is surely on [...]

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Do you know this man?

May 15, 2007

It’s night in the big city. Down by the point a foghorn blows. A phone rings, clearing the fog. “It’s Bob.” “Good to hear you. What’s up?” “I need a hand.” “Sure. Ask.” “You were at the Geneva gig, right?” “Yeah. Why?” “You know how we always monitor the audience, see what’s happening out there?” [...]

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Flying home

April 17, 2007

We’ve been reading bits of Elias Canetti’s Voices of Marrakech. In one of them he talks about the importance of a room of one’s own to the full enjoyment of the city around. How right, even if the room is one’s own only for the night. So different today, our last night, from our first [...]

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Hairemy

April 17, 2007

Which raises the question of who I am. From the first night in the Jamaa el fna, when someone called me “Moustache” in the French mode, that has been my main name. But I’ve also been called Ali Baba more than once, and I’ve just been told that I look like a Colombian soccer player [...]

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Magic

April 17, 2007

Last night, after the Berber drumming, we had magic tricks and puzzles. I managed to solve one (and almost solved another) so that this morning at breakfast a young father pointed me out to his children in awed tones as the man who had divined the solution. Which was nice.

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Couscous and cigarettes

April 16, 2007

Last night we went for a stroll in search of supper, having said we might come back in half an hour or so. That was a mistake, because this morning Farid the manager said that he had waited for us, and that the custodian had told him that we hadn’t returned until 11.30. Supper was [...]

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You’re never alone with a paintbox

April 16, 2007

The alone-in-a-crowd bit doesn’t work for The Squeeze if there are local children around. They are too curious and she is too generous and the end result is expensive water colours being daubed on expensive paper to the amusement of all concerned. Yesterday it was Mohamed and his pal Moustafa at the ouad in front [...]

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Sun sets, one wall at a time

April 16, 2007

How to do in words the changing of the light as the sun sets on the kasbah? Can’t really be done, so why try? Only to attempt to set down one aspect of it, and that is the paradoxical speed with which it happens. You stare and stare at the rich red-brown of the walls, [...]

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Wot, no roses?

April 16, 2007

On the way here to the Gorges du Dadès we had two good stops and a detour. At the first stop, the Cafe du Pont on the way in to El-Kelaa M’Gouna, The Squeeze ordered saffron tea. There was a moment’s consternation, then off went the young man to prepare it. While we waited a [...]

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How we got here Part II

April 15, 2007

Issia explained to us several times during our visit that he worked with Berber women who had been beaten or divorced. Now came the time to visit his warehouse to see their work. Or someone’s. Another beautiful young man, with an absurdly oversized technicolour turban, told us all about wedding carpets and vegetable silk and [...]

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Here before we arrived

April 15, 2007

It happens every journal on every trip: out of synch. Sitting at the very top of the kasbah at Ait Ben Haddou, overwhelmed by the land all around, and I have not got us here yet. But I can always go back to how we came. The town is spread out below along the river [...]

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How we got here Part I

April 15, 2007

Having filled up and found our way to the road for Ouarzazate, everything fell into place. Easy driving, even on the hairpin turns into the High Atlas. The main danger was men and boys holding fossils out by the side of the road, beckoning us to stop and then, some of them, running frantically after [...]

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