From the category archives:

Glory

A boundary-appropriate workshop and social event …

May 12, 2008

Seldom have I been so keen to rush home and Google something. We were on a weekend jaunt away, and what with one thing and another found ourselves driving between Sansepolcro and Arezzo with a Los Angelena in the back seat. We were giving her a ride to the station, and exposing her to a [...]

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Who is that guy?

May 11, 2008

Sat in front of Piero della Francesca’s Resurrection, in a beautiful, spare space, I’m struck by the absolute directness of the gaze. He is looking straight at you, with no sign of having suffered except a minor piercing. “Oh, that? A flesh wound.” Then there is the casual drape of his left hand over this [...]

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Which way?

March 30, 2008

“We’ll be leaving in a moment. Especially if you can tell me the route.” I thought the bus driver was joking, an attempt to break the ice with his sole passenger early on Sunday morning. But no. He hesitated at a crossroads. “Turn left,” I yelled. More people were getting on, and when he attempted [...]

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How it started

March 29, 2008

There’s a struggle each morning. Walkers and cars, each trying to dominate the other. It probably started when Romulus told Remus not to jump over his wall. “Stuff that, I’ll jump over anything I like.” “Right. Then I’ll have to kill you.” There’s just no respect. Divers disrespect pedestrians. Pedestrians disrepect drivers. The result really [...]

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Unexpected pleasures

March 23, 2008

It has been windy and raining for three days, on and off, mostly on. We went to a friend in the countryside and spent the time indoors reading by the fire. Last night, in a momentary break, I took the dog out, and my jaw dropped. Big black clouds were sailing in stately manner past [...]

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Nun the wiser

March 14, 2008

The next time it happened, I wasn’t quite so surprised. It had been a Thursday. Now it was Tuesday. Roughly the same time, and there they were again; veils flapping, anoraks, running down the street. Theories began to form. Same time. Every day? Or every other day? No information on that one. Probably not late [...]

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What is that thing called?

March 14, 2008

In the course of my previous couple of posts I faced a huge mystery. Google “what is the proper name for a nun’s headdress” and you won’t be much the wiser. At least, unlike Robert Browning, I know that it isn’t a twat. “Veil” is the best I could come up, thanks to the OED [...]

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Cool running

March 13, 2008

The first time it happened I was unprepared. We were out walking early, me and the dog, when she came up behind us silent as a submarine. Then she was past, veil flapping softly. Not dressed athletically. Aside from the veil, the regulation dark anorak, blue skirt, black socks, black tights. (They couldn’t possibly be [...]

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I love scholarship

January 24, 2008

Not that I am in any position to judge, but it seems like another myth about Roman history has bitten the dust. The giant sundial known as the Horologium Augusti, out there by the Ara Pacis, is not a sundial at all. It’s a meridian. A what? Go read the whole post at Archaeoastronomy.

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Scenes from Roman life 10

December 19, 2007

Saturday night, on the town. An early movie, then a stroll through the centre of the city to an English pub where a friend’s band is to play later that night. Much later, it turns out. They are scheduled for 9.30, which suggests 10.30 will be nearer the mark. It is only 7.30. Normally it’d [...]

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Winter

October 25, 2007

Down by the river yesterday morning something in the sky caught my eye. This was not easy, because my eye was fixed firmly on the ground to avoid the shit, needles and other detritus of the raggle-taggle life. I glanced up to see two skeins of geese arrowing fast towards me. I whipped out the [...]

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Over-excited

July 3, 2007

This just in, thanks to Rob.

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Self Critical Mass

June 30, 2007

This is odd. Last night I went on the Critical Mass Rome bike ride again, and it was a very pleasant, sedate affair. We pedaled slowly along the Lungotevere and up the via Cavour (and elsewhere) notably to give people on motorized two-wheelers a hard time. Anyway, I was going to contrast it with last [...]

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Great Art

June 25, 2007

Down by the river this morning, a faint sweet whiff of aerosol spray paint alerted me that the Great Artist had been in action. Two pieces on the embankment. In the first, see below, a new twist on an old theme: To one side, in Italian, obviously: Il cane é il migliore amico della donna. [...]

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A bit of a damp squib

June 23, 2007

Down to the river last night for the third annual Tevereterno binge to mark the solstice. Maybe I’m getting jaded, but last night was actually a bit disappointing, I’m afraid. There was a passel of marimba, xylophone, vibraphone type players doing a minimalist, rhythmic, repetitive kind of thing, which was rather good to listen to [...]

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Motorsickle music

June 19, 2007

This is for Neddie, and Blue Girl, and the Viscount. Because there are known icons and unknown icons. And back in 1968, while The Viscount was being a biker, I wanted to be the bloke who could play guitar so well that the Art Master let him spend lunch-hours practising. Red hair and black leather, [...]

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No scones, no plants for sale

May 21, 2007

On a glorious Sunday, what could be nicer than visiting some gardens? Alas, they don’t quite know how to organize these things in Italy. No scones, no home-made jam, no plants for sale (which is just as well as I have nowhere to put them). But they do have guides, and regimentation. Parties enter on [...]

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Do you know this man?

May 15, 2007

It’s night in the big city. Down by the point a foghorn blows. A phone rings, clearing the fog. “It’s Bob.” “Good to hear you. What’s up?” “I need a hand.” “Sure. Ask.” “You were at the Geneva gig, right?” “Yeah. Why?” “You know how we always monitor the audience, see what’s happening out there?” [...]

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Scenes from Sienese Life

May 14, 2007

I’m strolling with The Squeeze in front of the restaurants and bars that line the edge of Piazza del Campo. Though I say so as shouldn’t, my ‘fro is looking particularly good, the result of that soft Siena water. In front of us steps a nattily dressed older gent wearing a red beret. He holds [...]

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And yet …

February 13, 2007

Globe artichokes — no matter how plump, how well cooked, how delicious their accompanying vinaigrette — are not a dish I wish to eat alone again. They need company.

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Scenes from Roman Life 9

February 13, 2007

Burned spoon, pack of bicarbonate of soda, pop bottle with a silver foil lid. A lovely slim little knife was there too, but I had already picked it up before I snapped the picture. I didn’t need to call in CSI: Rome to know what had been going on. Drugs! No surprise, really; down on [...]

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A day to remember

January 15, 2007

They buried my father today, and it was OK. Well. It was a lot better than I feared, but probably worse than he feared. His fears no longer matter. That’s the thing about funerals. They are perhaps the only one of life’s rituals that matter not one bit to the central person. Funerals are for [...]

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Walkies

January 8, 2007

So here’s the spooky story, continued. It was supposed to be just a walk. In fact, I had joked with friends about the North American habit of calling an English “walk” a “hike”. But we were both wrong. It was more than a walk. And it was quite a hike. I created a set of [...]

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Acid rain to blame

January 6, 2007

“Under the armpit and knee of River Plate you can see that the marble is still smooth as it once was. But the amazing and enormous head is rough and lined like an old man.” I just love the idea of the River Plate’s armpit. The real thing’s not bad either. The restoration of Bernini’s [...]

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