From the category archives:

Bread and Cheese

Hamelman’s Semolina with a whole-grain soaker

January 31, 2010

I’d been longing to try one of those whole-grain soaker recipes for ages, but had to wait for the time to visit the whole foods shop to score some millet seeds; never seen them anywhere else. And then I had to wait another few days for a baking day. And a final delay of a [...]

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Pandoro, Pan d’oro, let’s call the whole thing off.

December 17, 2009

Susan lays it on the line:

Like its cousin panettone, pandoro is an involved bread. It requires a carefully-planned schedule, some ingredients and equipment you might not have on hand (but are readily available), and close attention during the final mixing process. That said, I would not discourage beginning bakers from attempting this. If you can [...]

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Sesame oatmeal bread

December 15, 2009

One of my favourite recipes in Bernard Clayton Jr’s Complete Book of Breads is Oatmeal Sesame Bread. The crumb is delicious and moist, from the oatmeal, and great for sandwiches. So I decided to convert it to weights and to use a sourdough starter.

100 gm white flour starter at 100% hydration
120 gm rolled oats
360 gm [...]

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Everything old is new again: cold-start cloche baking

December 3, 2009

I was reading Elizabeth David’s English Bread and Yeast Cookery in search of the straight dope on Lardy Cake, which I’ve promised expat friends for a forthcoming English Tea. Having found what I needed, I decided to treat myself to rereading her consummate explanation of the perfect English Cottage Loaf, and how to make it. [...]

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Food News (new series) 16: Inventive

November 24, 2009

Start: 95.4 Last week: 88.9 This week: 87.3
My grand scheme to end world hunger using modern technology seems to have fallen on stony ground. Fortunately I can still eat.
When I joined the secret confraternity of home bread bakers back in the summer, the restaurant Necci 1924 fed us a remarkable lunch to tide us [...]

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Black pepper rye and baker’s math

November 15, 2009

I wanted to have another go at Dan Lepard’s Black Pepper Rye, making use of two new ideas. First, rather than attempt to control boiling the rye flour in the coffee, which gave lots of people trouble, I planned to just pour boiling coffee over the rye flour. Secondly, instead of dried yeast, I wanted [...]

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Nuts for walnuts

November 8, 2009

It has been walnut season here for a couple of weeks, and we’ve been merrily cracking them at every opportunity. That, and glowing plaudits at The Fresh Loaf, persuaded me to try Dan Lepard’s Walnut Loaf. Dan is rapidly becoming one of my favourite bread mavens (Santa knows this) and after the stunning success of [...]

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Mr DIY

October 20, 2009

I may just have died and gone to heaven. Over at another place where bakers hang out I was extolling the virtue’s of Dan Lepard’s Black Pepper Rye and my tiny difficulty with the recipe when who should pop up but Mr Lepard hisself. Among other things, he said “It’s very good toasted with [...]

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Dan Lepard’s Black Pepper Rye

October 18, 2009

The Main Squeeze spotted this recipe on the same page as the Saffron Couscous, Chickpea and Lentil Salad she was making, ripped out of The Guardian Weekend magazine for 19 September 2009. It looked good. And it contained something I’ve never seen before in a bread recipe: a kind of roux, flour boiled in a [...]

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Food News (new series) 10: Neo-artisans

October 14, 2009

Start: 95.4 Last week: 88.7 This week: 88.9
No excuses. Damn. For the weight. For the date, see previous post, The software ate my homework, honest.
Having touched on some global stuff, it occurred to me to bring the topic back home, by making good on my promise to write more about the bread-making course I went [...]

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Food news (new series) 6: Stories to savour

September 15, 2009

Start: 95.4 Last week: 88.9 This week: 87.8
That’s even more encouraging. Moving on again …
I read a nice piece by Madronna Holden on her blog Our Earth/Ourselves. She tackles the larger theme of the story of consumer products, reminding readers of Wendell Berry’s remark that we should not eat any food we are not willing [...]

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Heidelberg rye

September 6, 2009

Much of the bread you can buy in shops in Italy remains remarkably good. Some things, though, aren’t available, at least not nearby. One of those is rye bread. So I resolved to make some this weekend, using a recipe for Heidelberg Rye from the 1973 edition of Bernard Clayton Jr’s The Complete Book of [...]

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Hot weather sourdough: there

August 30, 2009

First off, 2000 words.

The complete story. With all the great help I’ve had at The Fresh Loaf, I managed a pretty good hot weather sourdough loaf last time. My notes then suggested giving the shaped loaves longer at room temperature and scoring more resolutely, and so at the first possible opportunity, [...]

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Low-salt bread ‘technologically feasible’, says study

August 27, 2009

Formulating breads with one quarter of current levels is possible without detrimentally affecting the rheological properties and the performance of the dough, says a new study from Ireland.
I expect bakers throughout Tuscany will be thrilled to hear that.

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Hot weather sourdough: almost there

August 26, 2009

Tunneling hither and yon through the internets I have been learning more and more about sourdough fermentation and why my bread hasn’t been too pretty of late. Advice suggested that I feed the starter with strong flour, reduce the amount of starter to 10% and slow the whole process down by using the fridge to [...]

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Aesthetic disaster, taste triumph

August 22, 2009

I thought I had solved my bread problem, and had high hopes for my most recent batch, but it was not to be. The dough was just incredibly sticky. Not slack, sticky. It clung tenaciously to hands, bowl, scraper, worktop; I really felt completely unable to manipulate it. I did, gingerly and with extra flour, [...]

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Bread almost there

August 13, 2009

First thing I did on getting back from hols was to wake the sleeping sourdough and then set to. I was determined to produce a better loaf, despite the heat: over 30℃ in the kitchen by day, and nowhere else much cooler. Step one was to find a stronger flour. I’d always used Barilla 00, [...]

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Bread snatched from the jaws of defeat

August 12, 2009

Although I promised to, I never did deal with the baking session that produced, as a byproduct, the Best. Pancakes. Evah. Probably because it was too awful to revisit. The dough — supposedly 65% hydration — had absolutely no structure.

Really, only a vague dread of wasting food persuaded me to pour it into [...]

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Best. Pancakes. Evah.

July 10, 2009

I’d been looking forward to this evening all week. (How sad is that?) It was time to bake, or at least to prepare loaves to bake tomorrow morning. I’ll deal with that tomorrow morning, when the bread comes out of the oven for judgement. For now, lets just say that it was very scary. And [...]

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That blasted bread

July 5, 2009

As good as my word, in search of the solution to my sticky dough issue, I made a loaf covering with a tea-towel throughout all the fermentation. The result was not good.
After rising overnight the dough, which started off as a stiff 50% hydration, was once again like waffle batter, only stickier. The problem [...]

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In which I wander down memory lane and come to a sticky conclusion

June 28, 2009

This whole “sticky dough” episode of late has been nagging at me.. Then I remembered, I had this problem once before. But did I write about it? I did! That time, I didn’t think much more about it than plastic bag=condensation, because there were all sorts other things going on with the dough. And the [...]

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Confounded bread

June 27, 2009

It felt very strange putting the bread in the fridge to rise, but I had to get to the bottom of this new stickiness. The next morning it had indeed risen, quite a bit, but there was something odd and unexpected. A little rim of water around the edge of the dough. Ahah! Condensation!
I normally [...]

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Weird bread

June 21, 2009

Last week’s very sticky dough prompted me to try something even worse this week. I made a 55% dough (not very wet, I know, but wetter than I started with last time) thinking that I could try the stretch and fold method of building structure. Disaster. Last night the mixture was bubbling away, looking lively [...]

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Brer Jeremy and the Dough Baby

June 14, 2009

A sourdough, which had been doing its thing all night, looked just fine this morning. So I went to punch it down, generally a satisfactional kind of thing to do. It grabbed my knuckles and refused to let go. And this was a 50% dough, which should be reasonably stiff. Something — most likely the [...]

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